Entry #12 Vietnam: June 26 - July 9, 2019
Greetings from Vietnam!
Thirteen years ago we made our first journey to Asia, for our honeymoon. That was when we first discovered the joys of travelling in Vietnam. We were completely charmed by the people, culture, and landscape of this wonderful place.
We had such an enchanting experience that we returned three years later to explore some more. Being back in Asia, we knew it was the perfect opportunity to introduce Jamie and Jessie to the beauty and excitement of this dynamic country.
So, for the past two weeks we have fallen in love with Vietnam, all over again.
Our visit began in Hanoi.
This place is intense. Being a traveller here requires a few initiating experiences. For example, learning how to cross the street in Hanoi is a traveller’s rite of passage. There are no lights or pedestrian crosswalks. Intersections are a buzzing swarm of motorbikes and cars, packed tightly together, covering every bit of available asphalt.
We saw a t-shirt that summed up the city’s traffic laws perfectly.
Figuring out how to take that first daredevil step off the curb into the mess of traffic is not for the faint of heart. We instructed the kids that they would have to walk into traffic, and assured them that as long as they walked in a slow, predictable, straight line, they would magically part the sea of rumbling engines and make it to the other side. Amazingly, they adapted to these extreme pedestrian practices very quickly. They would stroll through streets without even blinking an eye as expert drivers would weave around our bodies, just skimming our toes as we aimed for the curb ahead of us.
Another extreme feature of Vietnam is the heat. It is crazy hot! The temperature soars to an oppressive 38 (but with the humidity it feels like 48 degrees)! We were melting. So we had to keep our city walks to a minimum and find ways to stay cool. This included a day at a pool and an evening of traditional Vietnamese water puppetry.
As beautiful and interesting as Hanoi is, baking in the city wasn’t working for us. So we headed for the hills… literally. Well, more like the mountainous islands of famous Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island.
We quickly realized that our family preferred living in a quiet farming village near the coast, to the crowded labyrinth of the city . The setting in this region is Vietnam’s iconic look; with its rounded, jungle-covered peaks jutting out of the sea and poking out in separate soaring domes on land.
The best features of these oversized limestone boulders are their secret caverns that stay hidden under the lush canopy that carpets the cliffs.
Discovering and exploring these gorgeous caves was as fun as they were educational. The kids were given an introduction to the sad history of the Vietnam War, (known here as the American War), when we visited a hospital cave.
This 3 story tall make-shift military hospital was built into the natural hollow of a massive cave. Complete with 17 rooms that served a multitude of functions, including space for surgery and even to store arms. Our tour of the space sparked many long talks about the devastating events in Vietnam’s history and the heartbreaking legacy of such brutal conflict.
We continued to seek out caves, because they were wonderfully cool escapes from the sun and also offered spectacular views into gorgeous, eerie, stalactite-covered, bat-filled, lagoon-hiding natural wonders.
We loved scooting around the island on our motorbike in search of secret tunnels in the rock.
While we rode around the island we would stumble upon some unexpected treats, like when the kids spotted a trampoline at a hotel perched on the top of a mountain.
Another great way to explore the area was by boat.
We spent a day sailing around Ha Long Bay, stopping at floating fishing villages, shifting the tour to kayaks, and then taking a dip in the refreshing emerald coloured water.
The ultimate joy for Jamie and Jessie was found back at our home-stay. There were tiny, brand new kittens! Our pet deprived children couldn’t keep their hands off these tiny mewing balls of fluff. Cuddling with the kittens was the absolute highlight of every day.
Actually, cute, baby animals were a reoccurring theme wherever we went in Vietnam.
Jessie was so overwhelmed with love for the kittens. When she wasn't smothering them with affection, she would spend her time building "kitten homes" that she would add to the kitties' otherwise basic living quarters.
We chose to conclude our time in Vietnam with a whole week in Tam Coc, an area known as the “Ha Long Bay on Land”. Still trying to combat the heat, we decided to take it easy in another small town with a comfy home-stay that included a pool.
There was so much to see in the surrounding area. Everyday we would take off on the motorbike and be amazed by greener than green rice paddies, the larger than life lotus flower lily pads, and the serpentine rivers winding in between the picturesque hills.
We also got to check out a variety of temples, pagodas, and palaces.
We spent our mornings exploring and our afternoons cooling off back home.
There was a special day out on the river at Trang An, where we skimmed through the water in a rowboat.
Being on the agile rowboat allowed us to float through a giant, 1 kilometre long tunnel. The oarsman steered us with expert skill as we ducked to avoid the dangerously low hanging stalactites. Super cool experience!
While Jamie and Jessie are absolutely amazing travellers and love being on this adventure with us, there are times when they really miss being with their friends. Lee and I always have the pleasure of chatting with other adult travellers, but there are far fewer occasions when the kids meet English speaking companions their own age. Luckily, for our week in Tam Coc, we were neighbours with a lovely family with 3 awesome kiddos.
Jamie and Jessie were thrilled to meet playmates who, despite the fact that they only spoke French, became fantastic new friends. Jessie and Lucie shared a love of arts and crafts, while Jamie and Loic worked together to make movies featuring their Lego characters. Even the eldest, Lise, would join in when everyone was splashing in the pool.
It was amazing watching the children bond and find ways to communicate despite the language barrier. Spending an entire week together was a real treat.
We are now sitting in the airport, about to board our next flight, and about to say goodbye to Vietnam yet again… but probably not for the last time. The sights and flavours have been as intoxicating as ever. The families who hosted us during our stay were full of warmth and generosity. There was kindness and welcome everywhere we went.
We have no doubt that our kids have also realized the same appreciation for this incredible country as we have had since our very first visit, over a decade ago. Perhaps one day they will return - maybe with kids of their own - and continue this love affair with all that Vietnam has to offer.
Thirteen years ago we made our first journey to Asia, for our honeymoon. That was when we first discovered the joys of travelling in Vietnam. We were completely charmed by the people, culture, and landscape of this wonderful place.
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| 2006 |
We had such an enchanting experience that we returned three years later to explore some more. Being back in Asia, we knew it was the perfect opportunity to introduce Jamie and Jessie to the beauty and excitement of this dynamic country.
So, for the past two weeks we have fallen in love with Vietnam, all over again.
Our visit began in Hanoi.
This place is intense. Being a traveller here requires a few initiating experiences. For example, learning how to cross the street in Hanoi is a traveller’s rite of passage. There are no lights or pedestrian crosswalks. Intersections are a buzzing swarm of motorbikes and cars, packed tightly together, covering every bit of available asphalt.
We saw a t-shirt that summed up the city’s traffic laws perfectly.
Figuring out how to take that first daredevil step off the curb into the mess of traffic is not for the faint of heart. We instructed the kids that they would have to walk into traffic, and assured them that as long as they walked in a slow, predictable, straight line, they would magically part the sea of rumbling engines and make it to the other side. Amazingly, they adapted to these extreme pedestrian practices very quickly. They would stroll through streets without even blinking an eye as expert drivers would weave around our bodies, just skimming our toes as we aimed for the curb ahead of us.
Another extreme feature of Vietnam is the heat. It is crazy hot! The temperature soars to an oppressive 38 (but with the humidity it feels like 48 degrees)! We were melting. So we had to keep our city walks to a minimum and find ways to stay cool. This included a day at a pool and an evening of traditional Vietnamese water puppetry.
As beautiful and interesting as Hanoi is, baking in the city wasn’t working for us. So we headed for the hills… literally. Well, more like the mountainous islands of famous Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island.
The best features of these oversized limestone boulders are their secret caverns that stay hidden under the lush canopy that carpets the cliffs.
Discovering and exploring these gorgeous caves was as fun as they were educational. The kids were given an introduction to the sad history of the Vietnam War, (known here as the American War), when we visited a hospital cave.
This 3 story tall make-shift military hospital was built into the natural hollow of a massive cave. Complete with 17 rooms that served a multitude of functions, including space for surgery and even to store arms. Our tour of the space sparked many long talks about the devastating events in Vietnam’s history and the heartbreaking legacy of such brutal conflict.
We continued to seek out caves, because they were wonderfully cool escapes from the sun and also offered spectacular views into gorgeous, eerie, stalactite-covered, bat-filled, lagoon-hiding natural wonders.
We loved scooting around the island on our motorbike in search of secret tunnels in the rock.
While we rode around the island we would stumble upon some unexpected treats, like when the kids spotted a trampoline at a hotel perched on the top of a mountain.
Another great way to explore the area was by boat.
We spent a day sailing around Ha Long Bay, stopping at floating fishing villages, shifting the tour to kayaks, and then taking a dip in the refreshing emerald coloured water.
Actually, cute, baby animals were a reoccurring theme wherever we went in Vietnam.
Jessie was so overwhelmed with love for the kittens. When she wasn't smothering them with affection, she would spend her time building "kitten homes" that she would add to the kitties' otherwise basic living quarters.
We chose to conclude our time in Vietnam with a whole week in Tam Coc, an area known as the “Ha Long Bay on Land”. Still trying to combat the heat, we decided to take it easy in another small town with a comfy home-stay that included a pool.
There was so much to see in the surrounding area. Everyday we would take off on the motorbike and be amazed by greener than green rice paddies, the larger than life lotus flower lily pads, and the serpentine rivers winding in between the picturesque hills.
We also got to check out a variety of temples, pagodas, and palaces.
We spent our mornings exploring and our afternoons cooling off back home.
There was a special day out on the river at Trang An, where we skimmed through the water in a rowboat.
Being on the agile rowboat allowed us to float through a giant, 1 kilometre long tunnel. The oarsman steered us with expert skill as we ducked to avoid the dangerously low hanging stalactites. Super cool experience!
While Jamie and Jessie are absolutely amazing travellers and love being on this adventure with us, there are times when they really miss being with their friends. Lee and I always have the pleasure of chatting with other adult travellers, but there are far fewer occasions when the kids meet English speaking companions their own age. Luckily, for our week in Tam Coc, we were neighbours with a lovely family with 3 awesome kiddos.
Jamie and Jessie were thrilled to meet playmates who, despite the fact that they only spoke French, became fantastic new friends. Jessie and Lucie shared a love of arts and crafts, while Jamie and Loic worked together to make movies featuring their Lego characters. Even the eldest, Lise, would join in when everyone was splashing in the pool.
It was amazing watching the children bond and find ways to communicate despite the language barrier. Spending an entire week together was a real treat.
We are now sitting in the airport, about to board our next flight, and about to say goodbye to Vietnam yet again… but probably not for the last time. The sights and flavours have been as intoxicating as ever. The families who hosted us during our stay were full of warmth and generosity. There was kindness and welcome everywhere we went.
We have no doubt that our kids have also realized the same appreciation for this incredible country as we have had since our very first visit, over a decade ago. Perhaps one day they will return - maybe with kids of their own - and continue this love affair with all that Vietnam has to offer.
Love seeing and reading about the adventures of your family! Greatest parenting here!
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