Entry #7 New Zealand North Island: April 26 - May 8, 2019

So Long New Zealand ! 

The past 2 weeks we have been touring around New Zealand’s North Island.  While it has less dramatic scenery, the North Island offers so many opportunities to relax and soak in the beauty.  Actually, we’ve done quite a bit of “soaking” here.  The island is a geothermal wonderland with hot springs bubbling up in every corner.  We should be proper prunes by now from all the time we’ve spent soaking in various thermal pools.

The most interesting form of this activity was found at Hot Water Beach.

This is a special stretch of coastline where people go to dig their own hot tubs in the sand!  We rented a shovel and walked along the beach until we felt the sand burning beneath our feet - and then we started digging.  Only a few inches beneath the surface there are streams of boiling hot water escaping from fissures in the earth.  The trick is digging in a spot that combines the perfect amount of scalding hot water with the right amount of freezing cold sea water.  The beach is full of people digging their holes in the sand and then settling in to watch a setting sun with the soundtrack of nearby waves.

The naturally occurring spa pools are not the only perk of this volcanic area.  We have loved seeing the wide variety of geothermal activity, from colourful mineral filled lakes, or craters belching out noxious fumes or splattering puddles of bubbling mud, to eerie fields of sulphuric steam vents.

These sights - and smells - are what make the town of Rotorua especially famous.  It’s also the place where Jessie would step out of the van, scrunch up her nose and repeatedly tell us, “Everything smells like fart.”  Which it did.

Rotorua was also the place where we got a deeper appreciation for the history, beliefs and traditions of the Maori people.  We visited a local “living” village and learned how the Maori used the geothermal gifts of their environment to heat their homes and cook their food.  The visit included a performance of traditional songs, poi dances and the warriors’  haka - the volume and ferocity of which completely scared Jessie, but totally impressed Jamie.

After that we got another taste of the local hospitality when we made fast friends with the sweetest couple of dairy farmers, Isaac and Jordyn  It was a chance meeting at the Waikite Hot Springs.  They warmly welcomed us to take a tour of their farm and let us meet their cows.

We loved seeing the modern day tricks of their trade, including herding the 200 cows by aid of motorbike, (which the kids had a blast on when Isaac gave them a ride.)

Our hosts were so patient and generous as they showed us around and answered our endless stream of questions.  It was such an informative view into an industry we’ve had no personal experience with before and such a memorable way for all of us to learn about dairy farming.

While we have spent a lot of time being relaxed and lazy, we did get out for some awesome hikes and saw many beautiful places on the North Island.

We also loved a walk we did that led us through a century old abandoned train tunnel.

Trampolines have been a big hit with our family and we've found them all over New Zealand.  Jamie and Jessie have honed their skills and Lee does his best to keep up :)

Having now spent a total of 6 weeks in New Zealand, it feels like we’ve come to know the local temperament as much as the landscape.  Kiwis are friendly and lighthearted.  They don’t take themselves too seriously and their sense of humour is apparent in everything from their sugar packets, to their restroom symbols, to their security signs.

Finally, it has come time for us to bid farewell to our beloved camper van.  It’s hard to believe that we have been so comfortable and at home in our 60 sq ft home on wheels.  There is such luxury in the flexibility afforded by a camper van: we go where we want, eat when we want, sleep where we want.  We are independent, comfortable, and completely free.  It has also shown us how satisfying it can be to live with less.  Our van life has felt pretty complete.

So tonight is our last night in our van and in New Zealand.  Tomorrow we’re heading back to Australia to check out Melbourne for a few days.  After that we’re off to spend the rest of our trip in Southeast Asia… and we’ll figure it out as we go.

Lots of love ~ The Zwaigens